Report and photography by Pitchsinee Chaitaweetham

Songkhla's bid for World Heritage status could boost the city's stagnant economy, but multicultural communities fear their ways of life may be left out by the monolithic preservation plan.

Enchanting Old Town

Songkhla is a province located by the sea in the southern part of Thailand. The provincial town is an old port with a long history, a melting pot of diverse cultures, including Arab, Persian, Portuguese, Chinese, and Thai.

With its history dating back to the Ayutthaya period, the town underwent several name changes over the years, including Singkur, Singora (its name in Malay), and Singkorn, before becoming Songkhla during the reign of King Rama III of the Rattanakosin period.

The way of life in Songkhla Old Town encompasses various religions, including Buddhism, Confucianism, and Islam. The Old Town consists of three main roads, Nakhon Nok, Nakhon Nai, and Nang Ngam.

Tourists in Songkhla Old Town can observe a striking blend of architectural styles—from traditional Chinese commercial buildings to Sino-Portuguese designs, World War-era structures, and more contemporary creations—all contributing to the town’s unique atmosphere.

Its unique culture is also reflected in the local cuisine, such as Khao Stew, which has its origins in Western cuisine but is prepared and consumed in an Asian style. The Old Town of Songkhla has the potential to become a great cultural site. However, it is not as lively as it should be.

Wanchai Parinyasiri, Mayor of Songkhla Municipality, in conversation with a Muslim vendor.

“The primary problem in Mueang Songkhla District is the stagnant economy,” said Wanchai Parinyasiri, the Mayor of Nakhon Songkhla and a former MP of the Palang Pracharath Party. “Although there are many tourists, revenue in the Old Town of Songkhla is not very high.”

Wanchai said that most tourists only drive through to visit and then return to stay in Hat Yai, a nearby municipality in the same province. While buildings of high cultural value continue to deteriorate, the Old Town bears the burden of increased waste and traffic without seeing a boost in income.

Put Songkhla on the Map

To preserve its cultural heritage and improve its economy, various sectors have been working to implement preservation initiatives, promote tourism, and revitalize key historical sites in Songkhla’s Old Town.

In 2022, the government issued a cabinet resolution naming Songkhla Old Town as one of the ten most attractive cities to visit. Local groups are also active. The Lovers of Songkhla Old Town Association, for example, plays a big role in the revitalization of the town.

"If there are only spirits and stories without physical evidence, it’s like a ghost. But if there is only evidence without stories, it’s like a corpse. Bringing the ghost and the corpse together is what makes history come alive," said Vudhichai Phetsuwan, President of the Lovers of Songkhla Old Town Association.

Vudhichai Phetsuwan, President of the Lovers of Songkhla Old Town Association

He said that Songkhla’s bid for World Heritage status began around 15 years ago, when a public hearing was held on the issue. After the Association was registered, they paid a visit to Penang and Malacca to study how those cities managed their heritage sites and promoted tourism.

With financial support from the Provincial Administrative Organization, a feasibility study was conducted in collaboration with Rajabhat University and Rajamangala University of Technology Srivijaya, which concluded that Songkhla has the potential to become a World Heritage.

A symposium of experts from Penang and Indonesia confirmed Songkhla's suitability for applying. Despite the challenges of the COVID-19 pandemic, the Association managed to bring in major private companies such as PTT and Chevron while working with the relevant ministries.

In 2020, the Association completed the 'Upstream Process' project to prepare Songkhla for World Heritage status, in collaboration with the International Council on Monuments and Sites (ICOMOS), a consultant to UNESCO.

Scholars have stated that Songkhla's application for World Heritage status could be approved within the next two years. If everything goes according to plan, it would become a new World Heritage site in Southeast Asia.

Design restrictions

As Songkhla applies for World Heritage status, Wanchai is working with the Provincial Electricity Authority, despite budget constraints, to bury the power lines. This effort aims to enhance the area's aesthetic appeal and address frequent power outages.

While this kind of improvement is something most people can agree on, other changes have not been as widely accepted, especially a new ordinance issued by the Songkhla City Municipality, which gives the Municipality control over the designs of all buildings in the old town.

“The Municipality has issued a new ordinance to protect areas with traditional architecture in the Old Town,” said Wanchai. “There will be a revision of the city plan to accommodate future development and this ordinance will be based on the new city plan which will be issued to protect all the old buildings in the Songkhla City Municipality.” 

The front of the Ban Li Heng ice cream shop is temporarily closed for renovations to build a new structure, as the original building was old and dilapidated.

However, the locals are concerned. Suphawit (surname withheld), the fourth-generation owner of Ban Li Heng ice cream shop on Nang Ngam Road, had to tear down and renovate the old shop under the new ordinance. To continue the business, he set up a temporary branch outside the old town.

“I don't agree with the house design they issued. Who agrees? It's not true," said Supawit. "World Heritage status is a good thing. Tourists coming in helps boost sales. But having buildings that all look the same according to the municipality is not good.”

“There are ancient Chinese styles, small Chinese styles, and Sino-Portuguese, and the municipality forces residents to comply with the regulations. As for the budget for new construction, homeowners have to find it themselves."

According to Suphawit, some houses may have older architectural features than those required by the municipality’s guidelines. While some homes may not be visually striking, they are well-suited for business. Yet, the decision-making process behind the ordinance remains opaque to the locals.

Uncle Ming, a senior local resident who described himself as “an introvert,” said that while he agreed that achieving World Heritage status “would be good for the economy and create jobs,” he “didn’t know anything” about the municipality assuming control over the design of all buildings in the area.

Uncle Ming

Uncle Khiao, or as the locals call him, the Wise Sage, said that “Personally, I wonder if they’re just doing this among themselves. The locals don’t really know. I just found out about it during the Southern Design Week when they gave a presentation to introduce World Heritage a few years ago.”

“There’s also the issue of reconstruction; if our house is damaged, we have to rebuild according to the design set by the municipality. But did this municipal ordinance come out of any people’s participation?”

Uncle Khiao, or the wise sage.

According to UNESCO’s guidelines, a set of protective measures is indeed required for a Historic Town to obtain World Heritage status. However, “the nominations should be prepared in collaboration with and with the full approval of local communities.”

In terms of integrity, a key concern for UNESCO, "the relationships and dynamic functions present in cultural landscapes, historic towns, or other living properties, essential to their distinctive character, should also be maintained."

Blue Smiles shop

As Songkhla is expected to become a World Heritage Site, some locals are also concerned that rents and the cost of living could rise, and they have not yet been properly informed about the traffic and waste management plans to cope with the increase in tourists.

"The old town of Songkhla has liveability because of the people, not just its buildings and structures,” said the owner of the Blue Smile local shop. “If we want to make it a World Heritage Site, we should clearly communicate the impacts on both the long-time residents and newcomers."

Invisible space

For the purpose of identification, UNESCO states that the applicant must include a map with clearly defined boundaries of the nominated site. Songkhla has drawn the map. However, it excludes the Muslim community around Ban Bon Mosque, an area even older than the one included.

Shops in the area around Ban Bon Mosque

Located at the intersection of Nang Ngam Road and Phatthalung Road, the Ban Bon Mosque and its surrounding area is very lively at night and often visited by long-time locals. The Muslim community plays a vital role in contributing to the city's cultural blend, as reflected in its foods and snacks.

Ban Bon Mosque is as culturally rich as other parts of the city. However, its cultural artifacts are often neglected, and the area suffers from poor management of its electricity supply. The municipality doesn’t give this area as much attention as it does to other parts of the town.

In contrast, Wat Matchimawat, which features Chinese stucco art similar to that of Ban Bon Mosque, is included in the Old Town map despite not being on its three main roads. It has also received much more support as a tourist spot.

“Ban Bon Mosque should also get restored and maintained, as it predates the establishment of the old town of Songkhla,” said Danai To-che, owner of Baan Nai Nakhon Boutique Hotel and representative of the Muslim community. In addition, he explained several challenges of preserving the area.

Skilled craftsmen, especially Chinese plasterers, are increasingly rare. The costs of repairing buildings in line with traditional architectural styles are also high, which may discourage local residents from preserving their old homes.

Danai acknowledged that regulations can help preserve the art and architectural heritage of the old town. However, they could also become limitations, attracting only investors or those with the financial means to develop in the area.

Mayor Wanchai said “although it is located in the Old Town, the architecture of Ban Bon Mosque differs from the predominant architectural style of the Old Town”. However, this claim is contradicted by the experience of Bangdin, the owner of two coffee shops in the area.

Bangdin

Joo Cof, located on Nakhon Nok Road just a few meters outside the designated Old Town, features the same period architecture, materials, and construction methods as his other shop, Teman Cafe, which is within the designated Old Town on Nakhon Nai Road. Yet, Jo Coffee does not receive the same attention, despite its architectural similarity.

Wanchai admitted "Ban Bon Mosque, which represents the culture of the Muslims, has not been talked about" and "has not been developed because it lies outside the Old Town area designated as a primary tourist attraction."

The Municipality is focusing on areas within the green zone first, "because they can be improved more easily and yield quicker results." Currently in the zone "there is construction, demolition, and repairs of various buildings, including tourist attractions and service points."

The layout of the Old Town of Songkhla consists of Nakhon Nok Road, adjacent to Songkhla Lake, Nakhon Nai Road, and Nang Ngam Road. Each area receives funding for maintenance and development, with the goal of becoming a World Heritage city.

In the future, he promised that the municipality “will expand the development to cover a larger area, including Ban Bon Mosque, so that Songkhla Old Town can have cultural diversity and be a creative city that encompasses all groups."

Embracing younger generation

The wide range of issues – from restrictions on design and the exclusion of the Muslim community to the lack of local participation, raises a broader question: Doe the current preservation plan truly reflect the lives of the town's residents and is it inclusive enough to support the town’s bid for World Heritage status?

The question can be explored through artistic expressions in the town. Jakkrit Pattranit, President of the Nang Ngam Road community, who participated in public hearings regarding the World Heritage Status, said that there are many areas that the Old Town can improve.

As an expert who provided insights into the City Pillar Shrine of Songkhla, Jakkrit pointed out that certain information from university studies doesn't align with local Chinese traditions. While Songkhla has become more vibrant with the rise of street art, he believes it would benefit from a clearer focus.

"Street art should reflect the lifestyles of the local people, such as Chinese people sitting to sell pa tong ko (deep-fried dough sticks) or galorgee (sticky rice dumplings) or Muslim people making roti, because this area used to be a market” said Jakkrit. “Images that do not relate to the local community will not reflect the true history of the city"

Street art depicting past lifestyles.

Jakkrit explained that there is an ongoing conflict within Songkhla's Old Town community between those who support the town's bid for World Heritage status and another group advocating for greater diversity in its artistic expression.

The group supporting the town's bid to become a World Heritage Site is led by conservatives centred around the Red Rice Mill, a well-known tourist spot. An anonymous artist and owner of Grandpa's shop commented, "we feel like we're in different worlds from the Red Rice Mill group because they aren't open to new ideas from the younger generation."

“Art in the old town should be more diverse, not just repeatedly retelling stories of the past, as it may attract tourists only temporarily,” said Pakorn Rujiravilai, owner of A.E.Y Space gallery on Nang Ngam Road. “However, creating new things will do more to enhance the liveability of the city.”

As the Old Town is on the path to becoming a World Heritage Site, it must prepare not only to embrace an influx of tourists and the accompanying cacophony, but also to welcome the younger generation, who will bring fresh ideas.

Ming, an economics graduate, and Arm, a former teacher—both natives of Songkhla—chose to open a coffee shop in the old town of Songkhla. Rather than pursuing careers in their respective fields, the couple decided to establish Stand Brew•Bake after exchanging ideas with friends from various age groups.

The front of the Stand Brew•Bake coffee shop on Nakhon Nai Road.

"In the past, the old town of Songkhla was a lonely place and there was almost nothing, but as we stay here longer, we see changes for the better. Shops and activities have increased, making the city more colourful," Arm said.

“We are often perceived as a big shop that is already making a lot of profit, so we don't receive much support from government policies,” Ming said. “Sometimes our shop has no customers at all, but a lot of cars parked in front of our shops.”

“The odd-even day parking rule is also a problem. We have to keep reminding customers which side to park on each day because the streets in Songkhla Old Town are quite narrow. Parking on the wrong side not only violates traffic regulations but also increases the risk of accidents.”

There is still a lot of work to do to develop the town while at the same preserving its heritage. According to UNESCO, becoming a world heritage site requires not only strict protective measures but also full participation of local communities.

If Songkhla truly becomes a World Heritage Site, it will still need to incorporate a set of complex regulations into the city. Jakkrit is concerned that these may not align with the context of the Old Town, but he acknowledges it is one path among many and, at the very least, something worth trying.

“If we become a World Heritage site, that would be great, but if we don’t, we can still be a heritage of the city or the nation heritage. It’s better than doing nothing,” said Jakkrit. “If UNESCO does not select us as a World Heritage site, that's fine; we will still care for, restore, and repair our city as before.”